What's in Your Basement?

Peter John is my favorite cousin. He has a knack for saying, in a hilarious manner, what everyone else is thinking. At a family dinner he once joked that in the event of World War III, after the nuclear fall out, he would somehow manage to make it to my dad’s house, because it would be the only place left in Rhode Island that wouldn't run out of food.

It's true. My dad has a large basement whose food contents could rival that of any Super Stop n’ Shop or Costco. I am not sure if this is an Italian thing, or a 1950's bomb shelter thing, or because he grew up in a large family where money was not plentiful but manual labor was. I could write several posts about his canning tomatoes, pickling peppers, and stuffing sausages his whole life. I suspect there is a part of him hard-wired to always have ample amounts of food stored. Trust me, he does.

Although I haven’t been in my parents’ basement since Christmas, I'm certain there are, right now, at least 25 boxes of Barilla pasta, 30 cans of San Marzano tomatoes, 5 cases of bottled water, a dozen boxes of cereal, a half a wheel of Reggiano-Parmigiano cheese, 10 gallons of olive oil, and 20 cans of cannelini beans. Whenever we ask him what he’s going to do with all that food, he invariably responds, “It’s food. It’ll never go to waste. Somebody will eat it.” Somebody always does -- primarily because he gives most of it away.

My dad is a truly generous person, especially when it comes to food. He gives away turkeys at holidays, shares countless bottles of his best wine with friends and family, and delivers crates full of fresh produce, meats, and cheeses to his children. He gets pleasure out of sharing food with others.

Since we’ve moved away, he has sent us scores of care packages. Invariably, there will be a bottle of olive oil because he knows that I love it. From light and fruity to bold and grassy, there isn’t one that I won’t try. I don't remember the last time I actually had to buy a bottle in the store; the shipments always seem to arrive just in time. Which is why I was stunned to realize that I have never made an olive oil cake. I mean really, I should be ashamed to call myself Italian.

Well, this past Sunday I made my first olive oil cake. The recipe is adapted from Sarah Perry’s Holiday Baking: New and Traditional Recipes for Wintertime Holidays. To make it savory, I added fresh lemon, rosemary, black pepper, and Dad's Reggiano-Parmigiano.

It was lovely paired with an arugula and ricotta frittata as well as with a goat cheese, olive, and sun-dried tomato spread. I must say, I can't wait to make it again as it was ultra moist, dense, and delicious. The only missing part was sharing a piece with Dad.



Olive Oil Cake with Rosemary and LemonPrint recipe only here.

Basic cake recipe:1 ¼ c all-purpose flour
¼ tsp baking powder
¼ tsp baking soda
¼ tsp salt
2 eggs, at room temperature
1 c sugar
½ cup fruity extra-virgin olive oil
¾ cup milk

Additions:2-3 Tbsp chopped fresh rosemary
The zest of 2 small lemons
The juice of 1 small lemon
1 cup grated Reggiano-Parmigiano
Several cranks of freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 350. Line a 10-inch loaf pan or 9-inch round pan with parchment paper.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.

In another medium bowl, whisk together the eggs and sugar until well blended, about 1 minute. Whisk in the olive oil and milk.

Whisk the egg mixture into the flour mixture until thoroughly blended. Gently mix in the rosemary, lemon zest, lemon juice, black pepper, and Reggiano-Parmigiano.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake until the cake is firm and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, about 40 minutes. Transfer the pan to a rack to cool for about 20 minutes before removing the cake.

Serve warm or at room temperature.

This tree is outside our bedroom, and every morning by the time we awake, the fragrance perfumes the entire room. This picture was taken from my window early one morning. I used the lemons in the cake.

Kisses & Kumquats

We tend to remember firsts in life. Our first kiss, our first concert, our first kumquat. I remember my first kumquat. It was on Sunday, February 26, 2006 at 9:14 AM at our farmers' market. (My first kiss was somewhat before then).

Kumquats' teeny size and bright orange rind make them impossibly cheerful. I was enamored at first sight.

"Those are so cute," I said to the farmer. "What are they?"

"Kumquats" he answered.

"What do they taste like?" I asked.

"Here, try for yourself," he said, handing me one.

Unsure how to peel it, I asked, “Do you just eat the whole thing?”

“The whole thing,” he said.

I bit into the kumquat, whose exterior is like a delicate orange rind, only sweeter. Then my teeth sunk into the flesh, and the juice squirted into my mouth. POW! a jolt of tartness hit my taste buds, and my salivary glands instantly went into overdrive. Involuntarily, my cheeks sucked-in, my lips puckered, and my eyes squinted. Just writing that sentence (and looking at that picture) made me have a visceral reaction again.

Like everything in else in life, it’s all about expectations. Kumquats are deceptive. Their diminutive size and adorable appearance makes them seem harmless, but they sucker-punch you with an intensely tart citrus flavor. It's like expecting the sweetness of a gummy bear but getting the whallop of a Sour Patch Kid (which I happened to love when I was a girl).

Cooking kumquats, however, mellows their acidity, making them a refreshingly tangy, citrusy compliment to seafood and tofu. Though many kumquat recipes are for desserts and jams, they also work well in savory dishes.

Here are a couple more kumquat recipes I've found. Rachel from Coconut and Lime has a deliciously refreshing Kiwi Kumquat Salad featuring raw kumquats while Gattina from Kitchen Unplugged has an elegant Kumquat Chiffon Cake featuring caramelized kumquats.

I am submitting this recipe to Kalyn of Kalyn's Kitchen who is hosting this week's Weekend Herb Blogging.

Pan Seared Sea Scallops with Kumquats
Makes 2 servings.
Print recipe only here.

1 shallot, thinly sliced
1 tsp olive oil
½ cup seeded, thinly sliced kumquats
½ fresh green jalapeno, diced
½ cup orange juice or tangerine juice
1 tsp lime juice
1 tsp honey
6-8 sea scallops
2 tsp butter
1 tsp olive oil
1-2 tsp fresh cilantro, finely chopped

1 Tbsp pistachios

1 cup cooked basmati or jasmine rice

Combine juice, kumquats, shallot, lime juice, jalapeno, and honey in a small saucepan; bring to a boil. Reduce heat, and simmer 3 minutes or until slightly thickened.

Pat scallops dry with a paper towel before cooking to produce less splatter and to sear more effectively. Heat a non-stick skillet over medium-heat high, add 2 tsp butter and 1 tsp olive oil. Once melted and bubbly, add the scallops; cook for 2-3 minutes per side or until golden and browned and just opaque in the center.

Arrange rice on plates; add 3-4 scallops, and top with kumquat sauce. Sprinkle with chopped cilantro and pistachios.



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It's a Bird. It's a Plane. It's a Super Grain.

We are a culture obsessed with rankings. From the 50 Most Beautiful People to the 10 Best Places to Live, we are bombarded with lists that tell us what is the "best" of everything. Food is no exception; I’ve lost count of the articles I’ve read about “superfoods.” You know them—they're the low-fat, high-protein, antioxidant-rich foods. While blueberries always seem to nab the top spot, quinoa is slowing gaining ground. And it’s easy to see why.

Quinoa is a high-protein grain that contains all 8 essential amino acids (a rarity in vegetarian foods) and is indispensible when you're trying to tone your arms. It's high in fiber, magnesium, and iron; plus it's gluten-free. And suprisingly, quinoa is as delicious as it is nutritious.

The first time I went to the market looking for quinoa, I asked the Birkenstock-wearing girl working in the bulk section, "Do you have kwi-NO-ah?"

"Do we have what?” she asked, perplexed.

“Kwi-NO-ah” I said again, “it’s a grain."

“How do you spell it?” she asked.

“Q-U-I-N-O-A,” I replied.

“Oh!” she giggled, “You mean keen-WAH.”

“Sorry?” I asked.

“It’s pronounced keen-WAH," she said. Then she proceeded to give me a lesson about Spanish pronunciation, the exploitation of the native peoples of Central America, and the hegemony of the West, ending up with something about Dick Cheney and Halliburton.

Thankfully, I had a bin of steel cut oats to lean on during her talk. When she finished, I asked her, "So which aisle is the quinoa in again?"

Leaning over to pick some steel cut oats off of my fleece jacket, she said, "Oh, we don’t carry quinoa here.”

Fortunately, my old standby, Trader Joe’s, does.

Although it is sometimes substituted for couscous, quinoa is fluffier, nuttier, and crunchier. Like couscous, it is versatile — I use it in everything from salads to soups to stuffings. When I saw this Inca Quinoa Salad from Nirmala Narine’s cookbook In Nirmala’s Kitchen: Everyday World Cuisine, I knew I had to make it.

Why Inca Quinoa Salad? Because the Incas were the first to cultivate quinoa and considered it sacred, even calling it “chisaya mama” which means “mother of all grains." So, it looks like quinoa was on the list of superfoods 6,000 years ago.

So just how super is quinoa? Well, I’m not claiming that you’ll be able to leap over tall buildings after eating it, but it might help you add an inch to those biceps.


Inca Quinoa Salad

Makes 4 side or 2 main servings.
Print recipe only here.

¼ c extra virgin olive oil (I used a little less than 1/8 c)
1 tsp minced garlic
1 small shallot, chopped
1 jalapeno, seeded, chopped
4 sun-dried tomatoes, chopped
1 tsp curry powder
½ cup uncooked quinoa
1 cup water (maybe more if needed)
1 small cucumber, peeled, seeded, and diced
2 Tbsp finely chopped cilantro
1 Tbsp fresh lime juice
12 endive leaves
Sea salt

To prepare quinoa:
Pour the uncooked quinoa in a fine-mesh sieve; rinse and drain. (This helps remove some slight natural bitterness from the grains). In a small saucepan, add quinoa and 1 cup water; bring to a boil. Reduce heat, simmer, and cover until all of the water is absorbed, about 15-20 minutes. (If the water has evaporated before the quinoa is cooked, just add a bit more.) The quinoa will be done when the grains have turned partially white, and the spiral-like germ of the grain is visible. They should maintain a slight crunch when eaten. This will yield about 1 ½ cups cooked quinoa.

In a small skillet, sauté garlic and shallots in olive oil over medium heat, about 2 min. Add the jalapeno and curry powder; heat another 2 min. Remove from heat; let cool. Place in a bowl, and add cooked quinoa, tomatoes, cucumber, cilantro, lime juice, and salt. Toss to coat well. Serve in endive leaves or eat on its own.

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When the Moon Hits Your Eye, Like A Big Broccolini Pie, That's Amore

When Jeanne from Cook Sister! announced that pies would be the topic for this month’s Waiter, there’s something in my… food blog event, I knew exactly what I was going to make.

Where I grew up, every neighborhood was dotted with family-run bakeries and pizzerias. Just walking along the famed Federal Hill, the wafting aromas of freshly baked wood-fired pizzas and warm yeasty breads could make even the most carb-averse person swoon. And if the smell wasn't enough to entice you, then the sight was: crispy, steaming-hot breads, calzones, and pizzas proudly propped in the store windows beckoning you to come in and have one. And considering how many times I have been lured inside (especially at Buono’s and Crugnale’s Bakeries), I can assure you that they are impossible to resist.

Calzones are true comfort food. They quell your worst hunger and leave you feeling content. Their versatility of fillings ensures that there’s something for everyone to love. And best of all, for me, they do what comfort food should do: remind me of home.

My mom and I have made hundreds of calzones over the years; what’s funny is that we always called calzones filled with eggplant or sausage or meatballs "calzones," but calzones filled with spinach or broccoli were called "pies." Which got me thinking, what’s the difference? Nothing. Turns out a spinach or broccoli pie is just another name for a calzone.

The calzone, originated in Naples, Italy, is often referred to as a “turn-over” or "half-moon" and is made of pizza dough that is filled with cheeses, vegetables, and meats. Though mozzarella cheese is most commonly featured here in the US, many other types of cheese such as fresh ricotta, Provolone, and Parmesan are used as well. Calzones can be deep-fried, but I’ve always had baked. No matter the name, they all share one common trait: they are oh so satisfying.

I’m putting a little California twist on this recipe. Broccolini just debuted at the farmer’s market and is one of my favorite vegetables. As I learned last week, it is not merely young or baby broccoli; rather, it’s a hybrid of broccoli and Chinese kale. Broccolini are delicate, a svelte version of regular broccoli, and they have a beautiful grassy green color. Their flavor is reminiscent of broccoli but is distinctly sweeter, with a pleasing peppery aftertaste. In this recipe, its sweetness contrasts nicely with the rich sun-dried tomatoes, salty olives and cheese, and toasty pinenuts. Of course, you can substitute regular broccoli or the bolder broccoli rabe (rapini).


Broccolini and Sun-Dried Tomato Pie (or Calzone)

Print recipe only here.

2 tsp olive oil, plus 2 tsp for brushing on top of pies
1 pound pizza dough (brought to room temperature)
1/8 cup sun-dried tomatoes, thinly sliced (dry-packed or oil-soaked)
1/8 cup pine nuts, toasted
1 cup broccolini, chopped
¼ cup black olives, such as Cerignola and Kalamata
½ cup grated Parmesan Reggiano cheese
A few shakes of crushed red pepper
A few dashes of salt

Note: If you’re using dry-packed sun-dried tomatoes, then allow them to rest in warm water for 5 minutes before slicing.

To toast the pinenuts, place in a dry skillet over medium heat for about 1 minute or until golden brown. Shake the pan handle gently to ensure even toasting. Remove from heat.

In a large skillet, heat 2 tsp. olive oil; sauté broccolini for about 1-2 minutes until it turns bright green yet remains firm. Add remaining ingredients and gently mix. Heat for 1 minute more, then remove from heat. Taste the filling to adjust seasonings.

To form the pies:
Working on a lightly floured surface, divide the dough in half, and roll into two 8-10-inch ovals. For each piece of dough, put half of the broccolini mixture a bit above the center of the oval. Fold the dough to form a half-moon; seal the edges together by pressing down lightly. Then using your fingertips, fold the edge of the dough up, and pinch around the edge to create a seal. Brush them with the remaining 2 tsp of extra-virgin olive oil.

Baking pies on a baking sheet:
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Bake on a rack in the lower third of the oven for about 20 minutes or until the bottom is browned. Then bump up the heat to 425, and move the pan to the upper third of the oven; bake an additional 15 minutes or until the top of the pie is golden brown and crispy.

Baking pies on a pizza stone:
Preheat the oven to 475-500 degrees, and heat the stone for at least 30 minutes. Cook pies directly on the heated stone for about 15 minutes or until both the bottoms and tops are golden brown and crispy.

1 pound of dough will make 2 large pies.

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Stir Your Risotto Less, Work Your Glutes More

When we first moved to Southern California, we thought we were in pretty good shape; turns out that “pretty good shape” is a relative phrase. Even the guy bagging our groceries knows his body fat percentage. In fact, the popular gym chain, 24 Hour Fitness (yes, they are open 24 hours a day), originated here. That pretty much says it all.

After a killer leg workout at the gym this past Sunday, we wanted to treat ourselves to a mega-carb meal. Since I had a butternut squash saved and had just purchased some fresh rosemary, I decided to make butternut squash risotto.

I prefer fresh rosemary to dried because its soft needles are much more redolent and its flavor is brighter. In this butternut squash risotto, it heightens the flavor of the squash and balances the pungent blue cheese.

I know some people don’t make risotto because it takes too long and the continuous stirring is tedious. Well, I’ll let you in on a secret: I’ve been making risotto for years, and I don’t stir it continuously. Malto Mario would be disappointed, I’m sure. But it never seemed to make any significant difference to me. And now Jamie Oliver (in Jamie’s Italy) has vindicated us non-stirrers, saying he stirs only intermittently as well.

True, making risotto is not a 10-minute meal. But trust me, it’s worth the work (and a few extra reps on the leg press).

I have submitted this recipe to Anna of Anna's Cool Finds who is hosting this week's Weekend Herb Blogging.

Butternut Squash Risotto with Rosemary, Walnuts, and Blue Cheese
Print recipe only here.

1 teaspoon olive oil
1 teaspoon butter
1 shallot, diced
1 cup butternut squash, roasted
2 1/2 cups low-sodium vegetable broth (or as much as needed)
½ cup Arborio rice
¼ cup half n' half or milk
1 teaspoon fresh rosemary, chopped
1/8 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1-2 tablespoons crumbled blue cheese
1/8 cup toasted walnuts, chopped
Salt and pepper, to taste

Pre-heat oven to 300 degrees; place walnuts on a baking sheet in oven for about 10 minutes, until slightly toasted and fragrant.

Bump up the heat to 400 degrees. Slice squash in half, remove seeds, and rub with a little olive oil; roast face-side down for 40-45 minutes or until tender when pierced with a fork. Once the squash is cooked, scoop out the flesh, and mash it by hand. It will be added to the cooked risotto later.

Meanwhile, heat broth in a saucepan over medium heat, then lower to a simmer.

For the risotto: In a large metal skillet, saute the shallots in olive oil and butter. Add the Arborio rice; toast for about 1 minute. Cook the risotto at a slow simmer, adding heated broth ½ cupful at a time. Stir occasionally, making sure the risotto absorbs the liquid before adding more; just be careful not to let the bottom burn. As it continues to absorb the liquid, it will become tender and creamy. Also, season with some salt as you go along.

I use 2-3 cups of broth for this recipe, but use more or less as needed. It usually takes about 20 minutes for the risotto to become completely cooked; but taste it. It should be wonderfully creamy and thick; it’s best al dente, which means it should still retain some firmness when you chew it. At this point, add the cooked squash, half n'half or milk, ½ the rosemary, and some salt & pepper; stir well.

Remove from heat; stir in Parmesan cheese now, as it will melt more slowly. Add some salt and pepper as needed. Most cookbooks suggest adding 1-2 Tbsp. butter at this point, but it’s optional (and a lot fewer calories without it). Plate your risotto, topping it with crumbled blue cheese, toasted walnuts, and the rest of the chopped fresh rosemary. Eat right away to enjoy its velvety goodness.

Makes 4 portions. (or 2 if it’s after a leg workout)


Saw these pretty pink tulips near my apartment on Sunday and just wanted to share them with you. Spring is coming....

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Forget Chocolate, Eat Fennel on Valentine's Day

As a little girl, my favorite candies were Twizzlers ® and black jelly beans. Every Easter I would pick all the black jelly beans out of the bowl and leave the rest for everybody else. Though I rarely eat jelly beans any more, I love to cook with fennel, which has a distinctive licorice scent and flavor.

Although fennel has become fashionable over the last couple of years, this herb has actually been enjoyed in cooking since antiquity (see Lucretia Drusilla's "Whole Cooked Goat with Fennel" from her 02 February 53 BCE post). Many cultures use fennel as a culinary ingredient and as an herbal medicine, and as evidenced at my house, it’s a staple in Italian cooking.

It is a remarkably versatile herb and pairs beautifully with fruits such as oranges and apples as well as classic Mediterranean ingredients such as olives and eggplant. When eaten raw, its crunchy celery-like texture and sweet licorice flavor gives depth to salads. When sautéed or roasted, it takes on a savory quality. In fact, all parts of the fennel, from the bulb to the feathery fronds, are edible.

And since it’s St. Valentine’s Day this week, I thought you'd like to know that ancient Romans considered fennel an aphrodisiac and likely would have used it instead of chocolate for a romantic evening. As so many culinary trends are cycical, I'm predicting that fennel will become the new chocolate for Valentine's Day.

I can see it now: Food Network's Fennel February, heart-shaped fennel treats on the cover of Gourmet, contestants choosing fennel for the Passionate Dish Elimination Challenge on Bravo's Top Chef....

By the way, I have submitted this post for Weekend Herb Blogging which is being hosted by Kalyn of Kalyn's Kitchen this week.

Tagliatelle with Pan-Seared Shrimp and Fennel
Makes 2 servings
Print recipe only here.

4 oz tagliatelle (or linguine-type pasta)
4 Tbsp olive oil
1 small garlic clove, minced
1 small fennel bulb, thinly sliced
20-24 extra large raw shrimp
¼ cup sliced mixed green and black olives, such as Nicoise, Cerignola, or Kalamata
2 Tbsp sun-dried tomatoes, thinly sliced
1 Tbsp fresh basil, thinly sliced
1 Tbsp fresh parsley, thinly sliced
A few shakes of crushed of red pepper
Salt, to taste

Cook pasta in salted water according to directions.

In a large skillet over medium heat, add 2 Tbsp olive oil. Add fennel, and sauté for 3-4 minutes until it begins to brown; add garlic, and sauté 1 more minute. While the fennel is still slightly firm, remove from heat, and place in a bowl. Add the olives, sun-dried tomatoes, basil, parsley, crushed red pepper, and salt.

In the same skillet over medium-high heat, add another 2 Tbsp of olive oil. Add the shrimp, and sauté for 5-7 minutes, turning to ensure that they brown nicely on both sides.

Add the cooked pasta and the fennel mixture into the skillet with the shrimp; toss well. Plate the pasta; sprinkle with more fresh basil and parsley. Finish it off with a drizzle of good extra virgin olive oil.

weekend herb blogging

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